The best time to make grafts is spring and early summer. In the middle of summer and until the beginning of autumn they can also be done, but it is not recommended. You will be proud of your skills as a gardener! Like all plants, when a cactus grows too big for the pot in which it is planted, you should change it to a larger one so that the plant continues to grow in a healthy way.
This process is very simple: you just have to be careful with the thorns and not to hurt the roots. The right time to transplant your cactus is when the roots come out of the holes in the pot.
And the ideal time for this is also spring never during winter. Replanting a cactus with no root is a relatively simple process, you just have to carefully follow a series of steps that we will show below. But before starting, you must make sure you have the necessary basic implements that will not only help you protect yourself, since cacti can hurt you, but will guarantee an excellent job and a positive result. It can be a sharp razor or a knife. The most important thing is not only that it is sharp, but that it is sterilized.
In this way you will prevent the arm of the cactus that you cut from being contaminated with fungi and bacteria. To sterilize your knife, you just have to apply alcohol to it, put it to boil in hot water at the boiling point, that is, when the bubbles come out, and even put it to heat over a live fire. It seems silly, but the newspaper will be a great ally when planting a cactus without roots.
Remember that cacti have thorns that can hurt you. If you have leather gloves for cactus , wear them instead. Finally, you will need to let your cacti dry for a while before transplanting them, and there is no better place than on top of a newspaper, in a dry, cool and airy environment.
Wood ashes are true allies in gardening. Not only is it an excellent fertilizer, it also allows you to prevent the spread of fungi and bacteria. You just have to be careful that the ashes are white, and they are made of wood, that way they will be more effective for your plants.
Prepare a suitable well draining potting mix and fill a small pot with it. Plant the offshoot into the soil. Pack the soil lightly around the plant until secure. Once the roots are established, you can slowly increase the amount and intensity of sunlight to avoid burning the plant.
Select your cacti to be grafted. A suggestion is choosing a fast growing one as the base or rootstock and a slow growing one on top or the scion. Having the rootstock and scion from the same species increases the compatibility. Prepare the rootstock. Cut about a few inches above the soil. This beheaded cactus will be your rootstock. Place the scion on top of the rootstock. Carefully place the scion on the cut portion of the rootstock so that the vascular cambium of both cacti are touching each other.
The vascular cambium is the distinct ring in the center of the cut cactus. The vascular cambium of the scion and rootstock need to come in contact with each other for successful grafting to take place.
Secure the two together. Use rubber bands or electrical tape to secure the two cacti together. Make sure the scion is well secured and pressing against the rootstock. Wait about two months.
After about one or two months, remove the rubber bands or tape. The scion should be firmly attached to the rootstock and you have a newly grafted cactus plant. Inspect the broken end of the cactus. If you find uneven or jagged cuts from where it broke off, cut out the uneven edges with a sharp clean knife to even it out. Set the broken piece aside and let it dry and callous over to heal.
This may take anywhere from a couple of days to weeks depending on the size of the cactus and the humidity. Keep the cut in a bright location but away from direct sunlight. Prepare the pot. Choose a pot with drainage holes that is appropriate for the size of the broken cactus. Fill the pot with a suitable cactus mix that is well draining. You can dip the dried end in rooting hormone before planting. This step is optional.
Plant the broken piece. Make sure the piece is standing erect. Pack the soil around the plant to secure it. Place the pot in a bright location but away from direct sunlight. Wait before watering. Do not water until two to four weeks later. Then wait until the soil is completely dry or two weeks later before watering again. Increase sunlight. The roots will start to form in about two to six weeks. You can check for roots by pulling the plant. If you feel resistance while tugging, the plant has started developing roots.
Once roots are more established, you can slowly increase the intensity of sunlight it receives. Cacti, just like succulents, are among the some of the easiest plants to root and propagate even for beginners, which adds to their appeal. Is Cactus plural? Is it OK to say cactuses?
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This section will explain the different types of propagation. Cacti and other succulents are easy to propagate. Any encouragement you can give them will start new growth. Remember that they are accustomed to growing on the dry side and too much water or humidity will cause them to rot. Division is the easiest form of multiplication. It is not only easy on you but also on the plant. Division is ideal when you want only a few plants, or you can use it when the plant starts crowding in on itself.
Division is not an extreme form of reproduction. Done gently, it's an operation that is only slightly more traumatic than transplanting. There is trauma, since the root ball is being separated and a part rather than the whole plant is being potted up; but you have roots, a stem, and leaves if not the leaves, at least the shoots to produce them.
All you need to do is encourage each part to keep on growing and protect it until it gets over the effects of the separation. Some plants divide easily while others require the eye of a diamond cutter to make the most of the possibilities. Division of indoor plants can take place at any time, but it is especially successful from the plant's point of view if done during the winter when the plant is resting -- indoor gardeners are less busy then, too. Dividing plants in the winter is frustrating from the indoor gardener's point of view because the plants will just sit there and do nothing until it is time for them to come out of their dormancy and start growing with enthusiasm.
Many succulents, especially those with thick mats of sprawling growth, can be divided very easily. They do very well, particularly if the division takes place at the beginning of their growing season. Spread the newspapers out carefully. Often the hardest part of dividing a plant is cleaning up the mess afterwards. Separate the root ball gently. If the roots are damaged or torn off, you will have a large cutting rather than a plant division and growth will be slowed.
At times, a clean sharp knife or a hatchet is necessary to divide the root ball with the least amount of bruising.
A clean cut is better than a torn and mangled mess caused by pulling and yanking. If you are not sure how the plant is structured under the soil line, put the root ball into a bucket of warm water and gently tease the parts of the plant apart.
There will be some damage to some of the roots, but you will be able to see where the main divisions are. If you are gentle and repot carefully this can be a useful method, especially when working with plants that have become extremely rootbound.
Be sure that each division has roots, a stem, and leaves or shoots , and pot it in a clean, proper-sized pot with good drainage. Good drainage is very important because the roots have been disturbed and damaged roots are more susceptible to rot. Use fresh, sterile, or at least uninhabited soil.
Unless there is a good reason for doing otherwise, place the division in the center of the pot. Plant each division as deep as it was growing before.
Press the soil firmly around the plant and water with warm water.
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